A Watery Escape: Slow-Boat to Luang Prabang

Drifting along the mighty Mekong river on a slow-boat from Chiang Kong to Luang Prabang was like floating around the lazy bends of consciousness. The crags of ancient boulders, veiled mountains and dense rainforest provided fertile ground for internal exploration as the soft hum of the engine rocked us into a gentle trance.   I…

Bangkok to Chiang Mai, Sleeper Trains and China Town

Getting a sleeper train across Thailand sounded so romantic, I thought it would be like a black and white east-meets-western film. In reality, the romance wore off fairly quickly. It began with a hot, sticky day of sight seeing, from the enormous MBK shopping centre to the thick chaos of China town.   We arrived…

Khao San Road K.O.

It’s seedy, too touristy and a place to avoid — that’s the distinct impression I had before wandering down Khao San Road for the first time. Being a contrary madam, that meant I had to go and check it out for myself. It’s also why we ended up staying in the Samsen area, a safe…

Bangkok: Triple ‘Temple’ Whammy

For those who only have a short time in Bangkok, you’ll be glad to know that you can do three of the big temples comfortably in one day. Warning: you’ll be all templed out by the end of it! The Grand Palace, Wat Pho and Wat Arun are all within walking distance of each other–…

AWOL in Bangkok : Samsen

Stepping out into Bangkok for the first time is like being walloped around the face with a big barbecued fish — it’s hot, it’s sticky and it’s smelly. Then there’s that charcoal residue, the thick pollution that lines your nostrils and your lungs. Dazed and jet-lagged, you don’t know what’s hit you — but it’s…

Streetwise in Bangkok

Everyone warned me about the chaos in Bangkok, but it’s hard to grasp until you’re surrounded by buzzing mopeds, tuk-tuks and taxis, whilst trying to negotiate a path to the other side of the road. The oppressive heat and inevitable hangover following our first night out in Bangkok didn’t help the initial stress. How did…